Simmzy's Beach Eats Zip Hoodie In Navy Recipe

Prepare pattern and fabric

Prewash and dry all fabrics to pre-shrink. Press fabrics flat. Lay out pattern pieces (fronts with zipper allowance, back, sleeves, hood (two pieces), pocket pieces, cuffs, hem band) according to fabric grain. Use tailor's chalk to trace and add 1/2" seam allowance where pattern doesn't include it.

Cut fabric pieces

Cut outer shell pieces from the navy cotton-polyester blend: back, two front pieces, two sleeves, two hood pieces, pocket pieces, cuffs, and hem band. Cut matching pieces from the navy fleece lining for hood and optionally the body lining if desired. Cut fusible interfacing pieces for zipper placket and pocket edges.

Apply interfacing

Fuse lightweight interfacing to the wrong side of the zipper placket areas on the front pieces and to the pocket edge pieces following the manufacturer's instructions. Press gently to avoid crushing knit fabric.

Prepare pockets

Take pocket pieces and fold the top edge under 1/4" then another 1/4" and stitch to create a clean top. Pin pocket pieces to the front pieces at marked placement, matching edges. Baste pocket side and bottom edges in place. Finish pocket seam allowances with an overlock stitch or zigzag to prevent fray.

Assemble shoulder seams

With right sides together, sew the front pieces to the back at the shoulder seams using a 1/2" seam allowance. Press seams toward the back and finish with overlock or zigzag stitch.

Attach hood

With right sides together, sew the two hood pieces together along the curved center seam. Finish the seam allowance. Press seam to one side. If lining the hood, assemble outer hood and lined hood separately, then place them right sides together, stitch around the face opening and neck edge leaving the neckline open for turning. Turn right side out and understitch the lining to prevent rolling.

Set in sleeves

With garment body inside out and sleeve right side out, insert each sleeve into the armhole aligning notches and ease fullness as needed. Sew sleeve to armhole with 1/2" seam allowance. Repeat for other sleeve. Press seam allowances toward the sleeve and finish with overlock or zigzag.

Join side seams

Fold the hoodie with right sides together and match underarm and side seams. Sew from sleeve hem through to the bottom hem in one continuous seam on each side using a 1/2" seam allowance. Finish seam allowances and press.

Attach cuffs and hem band

Measure the sleeve openings and cut rib knit cuffs to approximately 90% of the opening length for a snug fit. Fold cuffs in half lengthwise with right sides together and sew short ends. Attach cuffs to sleeve openings stretching slightly to fit. For the hem band, sew short ends, fold in half, and attach to the bottom edge of the hoodie, stretching slightly to fit. Use a stretch stitch or twin needle for professional finish.

Install zipper

With the front edges pressed and interfaced, align the separating zipper with the right front edge (zipper teeth centered on edge). Using a zipper foot, stitch zipper tape to the front placket. Repeat on the left front. Ensure zipper teeth align and zipper moves freely. If desired, topstitch along zipper edge to secure.

Insert drawstring and grommets

Measure and mark grommet placement on the hood's facing. Punch holes and install two metal grommets per manufacturer's instructions. Using a safety pin, thread the drawstring through the hood channel. Tie knots or add aglets to the drawstring ends.

Final finishing

Trim loose threads, press all seams gently. If using a serger, finish all raw edges for durability. Add any branding or label (Simmzy's Beach Eats) to the inside neck or hem if desired. Give the hoodie a final press and inspect for even seams and proper zipper function.

Use an appropriate sewing machine needle (90/14) and test stitch on fabric scraps before sewing garment seams. Switch to a zipper foot to install the zipper cleanly. Use a twin needle or stretch stitch for topstitching and hemming to allow fabric recovery. Use pins or clips to secure thick seam allowances when attaching cuffs, bands, and zipper.

Iron all seams and press interfaced areas to set stitches and shape the hoodie. Use steam cautiously on fleece lining to avoid flattening nap. Check zipper operation several times during installation to prevent fabric from catching.

Hand-stitch any small details, bartacks on pocket corners for reinforcement, or hand-sew label in place. Use seam ripper to correct any stitching mistakes and re-stitch as necessary.